I used all of these pieces for one set of strut changes and am selling them. My problem was one of the retainer nuts actually came loose and off the strut tower. I can't figure out what the purpose of the alignment tool is, or how to use it. No pitting, a little paint it will look like new. On this Buick Regal the front strut cartridges are easy to change if you have the proper tools.
You can find the warranty period in the product description. The case is dirty and may need cleaned up a bit. Edited February 24, 2017 by Imp558 Thanks guys. I watched the video of the guy changing struts on a Regal, and he doesn't even use it. Yes, the front strut is in insert.
With these cars you can change the front strut cartridges with out even jacking up the car. Searches are carried out in real-time, and from the main page you can easily browse most car makes currently available. The stock struts come this way with the strut housing acting as the outer housing for the damper. Just a little surface rust, the other one cleaned up nice with a wire wheel. Many cars have the strut damper and housing as one unit.
I got it done today, and I ended up not using the tool. Disadvantage: owners should perform the Strut Overhaul service instead to replace other underbody issues and parts including coil springs. There was a spring compressor involved and it took all day. Bearing can't be replaced through the top with the struts, the spring will need to be removed for that. I raise the front end of the car so both tires are just about off the ground jackstands and use a pipe wrench on the top strut nut thingies, right in between the spring coils. With car on flat level ground do not jack the car up raise the hood, remove strut tower brace or plates, remove nuts on strut rod as 94 olds vert says, pry rubber isolator out of pocket with a screwdriver, insert special tool looks like long socket over top of strut rod, engage special tool into strut housing nut, loosen nut all the way out, remove special tool, pull old strut insert out the top.
I bought the W-body strut tool kit, and it came with the J 38844 strut alignment tool. Lisle tools you know, those red and white packages of specialty tools at most parts stores makes the strut tool too! I'm fabbing up some strut mounts that will use the factory rubber isolator and bump stop and will be able to change front struts from the top like factory. Yes they are prepped for coil overs. I started doing it this way long before I knew there were actual specific tools and it's fast enough I just don't care to change it. The original strut cartridges use fluid in the strut housing.
Bearings and bushings shouldn't need replacement unless there's something wrong with them. There are better tools for doing this job but most parts stores which has loan a tools should have the tool you can use for free. I was impressed that this 150k car still had the factory struts. The new strut cartridges are self contained but leave most of the oil in there to help cool the new strut cartridges. Here is some in-car video of me racing at Gingerman Raceway.
I thought we had the crappiest front strut assemblies. Now I can do front struts in an hour or so with a beer in one hand. This is pre-owned but is still in good condition. The Neon in the background is a 24hrs of Lemons race car. All the pieces are in good condition. They are '96 big brake strut mounts. Aside from that, if everything goes as planned I'll have second Gen everything up front soon so no more polish cannon strut cartridge tube mount systems.
Please view photos for a complete description. The machine shop will have the first ones done mid next week. One of mine let go on the highway last year in the middle of Northern Montana. We will see what they charge, hopefully they will be inexpensive as well. This is an updated version of the video I posted earlier, but in this one not only do I remove the top mount and springs, I also remove the strut cartridge. A bad bearing will affect steering feel and you should be able to see if a bushing is bad when you remove it.