Timing gear pulleys with variable valve timing unit. Any further testing procedures I can do? I hope I've been of some help to anyone else with the same problem. I have a Volvo V40 52 plate. I hope I've been of some help to anyone else with the same problem. With these quick guide you can check if the Variable Valve Timing Pulley on your Volvo is playing up. I guess I got lucky, but I never thought about the gear being able to rotate around and get stuck on one of the bolts! Will have a long distance trip next weekend and don't know if the engine can do it with the solenoid unplugged. He also suggested that as my car has done almost 60K miles that I should consider replacing the cam belt and at the same time remove the camshaft pulley for assessment and possible replacement.
If you are, and the hub isn't setup correctly, no worries. As for your little twist on this problem, the camshaft pulley is not keyed or fixed, other than by tightening the fixing bolts, getting the timing right I have read can be difficult if you're not careful. Of course the engine management light stays illuminated, but I'm happy to put up with that for the time being, and I have noticed a drop in power, but barely. Starting on a hill in first, it struggles. The deterioration of either solenoid or pulley must have been so gradual that I didn't notice any difference when the car was running. Once you reset the tensioner, tighten the pulley bolts up.
So the hub could very well be leaking. Fuel consumption may be a little higher and there may be a slight drop in power. Now there is lots of oil around cam belt have been told it is the vvt. Well, just to be sure the running rough at idle isn't another issue, are you getting camshaft position sensor codes? I will be replacing the exhaust cam gear and timing belt this weekend. You have to loosen the engine lifting eye, removing the top bolt and push it over to get the locking tool in place. I have attached a picture of what the hub looks like. I did not pull off the crankshaft pulley.
Volvo Forums — Volvo Enthusiasts Forumvolvoforums. Checked under car to see if there were any more leaks from the passenger side. Remove the center bolt and rotate the hub as necessary. It's now February 2011 and the car has covered 75000 miles. You then have to remove half the interior to get to the nuts on the top of the struts. Sorry I can't help with the technicalities, but I was interested to hear of someone else having the same problem.
Does anyone know what this device actually is? Unbolt the lower bolt on strut with an 18mm and 17mm socket. Here is all you need to do in order to insure you have the timing correct. Surprised the belt hadn't slipped already. I haven't owned the car very long, but it has only been getting around 19-20mpg with 23mpg being at best 60% highway driving. Does anyone know what this device actually is? Just get a good flashlight and you can see them pretty good down there. Dry as a bone but now I have a very big leak from the drivers side.
Thanks in advance for any help. First, you do need to have a cam lock tool to do this. I've taken the solenoid to bits, there's no wear and all the small oil holes are free from gunk, when I apply battery voltage across the terminals the solenoid operates as it should, and I don't want to spend over £100 if the original part is ok. You even have to take the metal turbo intake pipe apart to move it out of the way, just to get at the back of the camshafts to install the locking tool. Does anyone have a cam shaft diagram for a Volvo S40 1. See my pics assuming they upload.
Get it wrong and yes I suppose the valves could hit the pistons, but when this happens the resulting damage is usually catastrophic. The hub is on the opposite side to the drawings, it is in the 3 position, I dont know if this makes a difference, but I will take it to a garage for a second opinion. He says it looks like the clutch has gone!! I need to remove both camshaft pulleys to replace the seals. Finally got the car back on Saturday. I used the camshaft locking tool which allowed me to remove the T55 bold and reinstall with no problems.
Almost chipped me dentures holding one spanner! I'd hate to spend two hours pulling motor mounts, etc. Today armed with socket set, tool box and several cups of tea I set to work and traced the racket to what appears to be some kind of auxillary oil pump activated by a solenoid on the top left of the front camshaft. Did the vvt problems drop off your mileage significantly? Except that I change my oil every 5K miles, and always have. If you just replace belt you just remove belt after lining all the marks up and fit new belt making sure all is still aligned. To do this, undo and remove the 6 screws highlighted in the yellow circles. I had considered trying to do it myself but by the time I'd factored in buying the cam locking tool it wasnt worth it - plus there is no margin for error on this job! Make sure who ever does the job, keeps the cams from moving or turning when changing belts.
They've put an inspection device into the engine, and two of the valves appear to be hitting the pistons. You could also have the front cam seals leaking as well and that could be your problem but the labor involved is the same as replacing the vvt hub since the exhaust hub and intake pulley needs to come off to replace the seals. How To: Replacing 1999+ Vvt Engine Cam Seals And Setting Timing. That component uses oil pressure to I am going to assume that it is the same part? Set the two cams in the right place timing marks before you take the top cover off - this ensures the crank is also in the right position - don't move the crank after what ever you do! Today armed with socket set, tool box and several cups of tea I set to work and traced the racket to what appears to be some kind of auxillary oil pump activated by a solenoid on the top left of the front camshaft. Just deactivated the solenoid after read the post and the noise is gone.