My advice would be to use something like simple green or other mild cleaner. I removed the rubber bushing by prying it up and off. The intake system and aftercooler were sort of coated with oil. Other systems use an oil trap or separator to do the job. Given how tightly the replacement hose fit I wouldn't even try to remove the new one I installed if I needed to remove it, I'd cut that one as well.
Picture shows tube already cut away Optional Remove the left knock sensor — picture shows sensor already removed from the block B. Remove the pipe from the car. When removing the connectors, check it the o-rings 2x on each connector and washer come out with it. Reconnect the air pipe that connects the air filter box to the turbo. Remove the clamp and pull the hose off. An oil change following this procedure is recommended.
Moving the turbo pipes to the way they are on the later '94 ish on was to warm the air a little in the very cold weather stop stop it freezing. Did you find this helpful? These are available directly from their website here:. Attach the other end of the longer hose the top one to the side of the engine block C on the picture , behind the main radiator hose missing in the picture , and the bottom one goes to the iron pipe that is behind the engine block D on the picture. Use blue tack or magnetic socket inserts to keep from dropping bolts. This tutorial focuses on the rubber heater core hoses. It's basically just loose around the opening.
A fellow Brickboarder just found out the hard way. Donations A further, more detailed cleaning video can be found here Although this is on a Volvo Euro3 163 D5, this valve is on millions of cars from many manufacturers. The other hose is straight length and I am not sure where it comes from. It took under a minute for me. It has a similar channel and was a little bit of a pain to move to my new radiator.
Others preferred to keep both in place on the intake manifold. I found a rope to be helpful to hold it safely out of the way. Remove oil trap hosing — I just cut mine so the other end would remain attached as a reference to where the new tubing would run. Tighten the clamp that holds the pipe to the turbo. The only weird thing was the same as the beginning of this adventure: Oil in the charge air system. This reminds me a lot of the rubber bushing on the radiator.
Note the existing tubing configuration take a picture to avoid confusion as to how the tubes are attached. This Swedish company offers the complete set of Volvo coolant silicone hoses and they are the official supplier of Koenigsegg supercars hoses so the quality is guaranteed! The top one goes to the side of the engine block D on the picture , behind the main radiator hose missing in the picture , and the bottom one goes to the iron pipe that is behind the engine block E on the picture. . New oil trap and associated hoses. Do I have to remove the intake tube itself and press it in and go from there? Unbolt fuel rail and remove the return line hose B. This can harm the engine as it tends to clog small inner passages, causing overheating, poor lubrication, and high emissions levels. Vacuum tube which goes to the left hand side if the intake manifold.
The rubber that holds it into the accordion intake tube is likely deteriorated and will be very difficult to get back in without removing the accordion tube. Was this another bit just on early 94's or did they carry in on for a bit longer. Once you have removed the air filter box, remove the air pipe that connects the air filter box to the turbo. Step 10 Install replacement parts. I made the following wooden steps to accommodate my front bumper not scraping the ramps.
Try twisting the thing in there since its not entirely round nor square. Any suggestions to get it seated? But what is the purpose of the electrical control and vacuum tube?? Just wondering what the 2 vacuum nipples at the top of the intake tube are for? Improve turbo response and cure overboost with this simple fix. The line that usually connects to the ptc nipple one that runs to the can behind the mani , is extended up and just dumps beside the brake resevoir. Re-install the lower radiator coolant hose and tighten the clamp. So I end up getting their reference do88-kit126S , wich includes both heater core hoses. The International Shipping worked very well, with the hoses arriving quickly to my door, very well packaged and even included some do88 stickers.
If I were to do it again, I would leave it in the intake tube and remove the intake tube and clean it that way. Because of my relative inexperience I wanted to minimize the number of parts I removed so I choose to leave them in place. Not recommended for emissions purposes, but not bad for the engine in any way. Any help would be appreciated. I secured it to the air intake hose with clamps. Until I get this in, I have to believe the codes are being thrown because of this. I also used one of my old standbys to help.
I have codes 455, and 420. I used a 10mm ratchet with a universal joint adapter to reach the bolts at the angle required. Large oily breather tube which goes around to the front of the block to the top of the oil catch tank 3. Without any prior indication of trouble, he leaked out enough engine oil to turn on the oil light. The connections to it are as follows: 1.