The next step is to remove the dark brown bolts 11 from memory from around the outside of the metal interior door panel. They are 100 percent load and computer tested under actual on-car simulated conditions to guarantee proper function and assembled with precise lubrication to ensure quiet operation, long life, and peak efficiency. Thanks for a fantastic welcome at the hotel on saturday. The top supplying country is China Mainland , which supply 100% of electric power window motor brushes respectively. I took mine apart and cleaned it and it started to work again,,,for a while. You'll probably be amazed how dirty it all is! When we first bought it the rear right window wouldn't roll down and the dealer replaced the motor before we picked it up. Next up and in order to completely remove the metal panel you need to remove the 2 gold hex screws with large washers, and the 2 gold hex nuts without washers that are holding the window guides in place.
The factory solder is tough stuff and may take a little while to melt before you can remove it all. Quick tips: Remember to mark all the screws you remove to help when it comes to putting it all back together again. We're interested in the one with the white plastic clip holding it in place and covered in a white-ish glue. Next it's time to remove the jelly-like sealant on the window motor's main housing - though only on one side! Unfortunately the warranty company have a limit on labour rates £40 which sort of restricts who i go to unless i pay the difference. In order to completely remove the metal panel you just need to pop the two remaining plastic clips through the door card that are supporting the lower electrics cable that connects to the window switch. Also the lower adjuster screw's for the regulator were a bit tricky to get off and got damaged so I had to make some new ones from a short length of threaded bar and some washers.
It's held in by clips at the front and on the 2 longest edges. I went round the door card looking for scratches, gouges and general marks of a scruffy job and found nothing, not a mark or a scratch could be found. I took the motor apart again and tried to remove the brushes so I can replace them. I did it by using two very small watch makers screw drivers and a second pair of hands! The top of the door card is slotted into the horizontal channel next to the window glass and into a slot at the top front of the door card behind the mirror , so the door card needs lifting up to free it once all the clips have been popped free. The top of the door card is slotted into the horizontal channel next to the window glass and into a slot at the top front of the door card behind the mirror , so the door card needs lifting up to free it once all the clips have been popped free.
If it doesn't slip out easily it probably means there's still solder on the 2 terminals which will need removing. I got an even bigger shock a couple of days later when the bloody thing started to work again!! In order to completely remove the metal panel you just need to pop the two remaining plastic clips through the door card that are supporting the lower electrics cable that connects to the window switch. I will have to add an update. The original carbon brushes have the copper cable exiting out the top of the brush, but any with copper cable exiting out the rear of the brush are fine too. The next step is to remove the dark brown bolts 11 from memory from around the outside of the metal interior door panel. I'm going to try to get a new motor fitted as i've read more than one entry on a variety of sites that cleaning the motor is sometimes a temporary fix but i suppose that depends on how thorough the job of cleaning out the motor is done in the first place. I think they may of been for a Dyson hover or something anyways solved the motor probem.
Long time lurker with my first question. A solid press and a strong wiggle will have it come apart. Start with your hands at the bottom and work up both sides. They checked the regulator which is fine but confirmed that the motor was knackered. You said the motor originally had silicone gear grease.
Best Answer eyedee , It's thread resurrection time! My Z's mostly been behaving itself for the past few months until the fateful day that the window motor in the passenger door decided to stop working. Hopefully it'll work as the price of a replacement motor from Nissan is just despicable. I should get the Zed back tomorrow as the motor will take a couple of days to be delivered. Remove the metal door panel and store somewhere safe. They're also guaranteed for as long as you own the car. As for Autolec, i'd recommend them to anyone especially considering they'd never had a zed in their workshop before.
Or does anyone know the exact size of the Carbon Brush so I can try and buy similar sized replacements that may require a tiny bit of filing down to fit etc. I can't believe you can basically buy approximately 30 new window motors from Nissan - or a brand new Z!!! Even if it were to go bad, just take it back and get another one. Since 1918, Dorman Products has supplied the automotive aftermarket with high-quality replacement parts, hardware and fasteners. The 2 top hex screws can be removed with a posi screw driver, a spanner or socket. I'm sure the motor is still good, but the brushes got broke in process. Electric power window motor brushes products are most popular in North America, Domestic Market, and Western Europe.
The lower 2 nuts will need removing with a spanner or socket. I had someone hold the window all the up and reassemble. Not quite long enough so I had to solder them onto the original tails instead of removing them entirely. Remove these and set them aside. Next You want to remove the window control module window switch from the door card.
I always keep a look out for cheap carbon brushes for dynamos etc Good luck and it is satifsying to save buying a new motor for several hundred pounds. You need to remove the electric cables from the window switch module by pushing in on the white plastic release catch within the connection terminal. With a small flat head driver carefully remove the sealant making sure not to damage any of the wires or connectors beneath. Keep the glue to one side so it can be reused later. Anyway, I've been trying to find somewhere I can buy replacement Carbon Brushes from rather than buy a brand new motor, but I can't find any - anywhere. Try not to melt the plastic of the window motor whilst getting the soldering iron in there, but it doesn't matter too much if you do - like I did ;- With the two wires de-soldered remove the white retaining clip and slide the carbon brush housing from the window motor.